Q: What is the normal valve setting for my pool?

Q: How do I vacuum my pool?

Q: How do I lower the water level?

Q: How do I heat the SPA water and not the pool water?

Q: When should I put my Solar Cover on?

Q: What do I have to do to the pool before winterizing it?

Q: What do I have to do before opening the pool for the season?

Q: What are the ranges for most of the common chemicals used?

Q: What can happen to my pool if the pH levels are wrong?

Q: What does chlorine really do?

Q: How do I clean the water line and get rid of that "bathtub ring"?

Q: Should I ever drain my pool?

Q: How do I clean my DE (Earth) Filter and how often should I do it?

Q: How do I "Backwash" my DE (Earth) Filter?

Pool Chemical Guide

Q: What is the normal valve setting for my pool?

A: Skimmer, Main Drain, Pool Returns, and Stair Jet valves should be in the Open position (The red handle in the vertical position). The VAC valve should be closed (The red handle in the horizontal position). For pools with a SPA, the SPA Drain should be closed and the SPA Jets open.

Note: Try to run your pool for at least 8 hours every day (4 hours should be before peak sun and 4 hours afterwards.) Filter pressure should be between 7 &18 psi (you can check this by reading the pressure gauge on your filter).

Tip: To make the stair jets more powerful, close the pool return valve then crack it open to ensure you have some water flow if the stair jets get plugged for any reason. This will keep your pump from burning up.

      Return Side - (at least one valve must remain open)

Suction Side - (Main Drain and Skimmer open)

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Q: How do I vacuum my pool?

A: You must remove the air in the vacuum hose before use. Make sure your VAC head or AutoVac unit is underwater. Hold the other end of the hose underwater and over one of the Pool Returns. This will push all the air out of the line. Once you stop seeing bubbles then insert the VAC hose into the VAC port.

Note: Valve Setting for vacuuming: Skimmer half closed, Main Drain closed, VAC, Pool Return, and Stair Jets Open.

Tip: Pool Cleaning - Filter Bypass (Non-DE Filters Only): To bypass the filter during pool cleaning, turn the handle of the 3-way valve located on top of your pump to "Waste". Attach a hose to the valve and begin pumping water. You will need to close the Skimmer valve to ensure that you don't loose prime on the pump. When cleaning is completed, refill the pool to the correct operating level and open the skimmer valve.

Tip: Pool Cleaning - DE or Earth Filters: See Q: How do I "Backwash" my DE (Earth) Filter?

Tip: Checklist for Pool Cleaning: Keeping your pool clean can be made easier by following a regular schedule.

• Use a small hand-held leaf skimmer to help in cleaning the pool.
• Regularly clean the strainer baskets in the skimmer and the pump.
• Regularly clean the walls of the pool with a soft brush. Make sure to also brush around the return lines, light, ladder and the corners of the pool.
• Vacuum the pool at least once at week (or use an AutoVac).
• Test the water frequently and add chemicals if necessary. Follow the manufacture's directions.
• If the water turns cloudy, test for chemical balance; If necessary, backwash and service the filter.
• Keep the pool area clean and clear of debris.
• Run the filter at least 8 hours a day.

Suction Side - Main Drain closed and the Skimmer open halfway.

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Q: How do I lower the water level?

A: Turn the pump off. Place the cone you use during vacuuming in the 3-way valve which is located on top of the pump. Make sure you have a drain hose attached to the cone and a hose clamp to keep the hose on the cone. Loosen the little knob on the 3-way valve and move the valve handle 180 degrees (the other direction). Start the pump again. Water will start draining from the pool. When the water level is down to the middle of the skimmer, shut the pump off and return the 3-way valve to the original position.  Remove the drain hose. Turn the pump back on.

     Normal valve position                            Drain valve position

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Q: How do I heat the SPA water and not the pool water?

A: To isolate and run your SPA, you will need to open the SPA Drain valve and make sure the SPA Jets valve is still open. Then close the Stair Jets, Pool Return, Main Drain (not the SPA Drain), and Skimmer valves. The VAC valve should already have been closed. If you have a slide or waterfall, close these valves too.

Tip: Get into the habit of turning a valve on before turning something off. This will ensure that you always have water flow.

Tip: NEVER FULLY DRAIN YOUR SPA! Draining a SPA can cause it to come of out the ground. Always keep the water level to the top of the jets at a minimum. 

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Q: When should I put my Solar Cover on?

A: Let your pool breathe during the day. Use the cover in the evening and at night or when the outside temperature begins to drop.

Tip: Keeping the cover on during the day (during peak sunlight) can cause unwanted bacteria growth

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Q: What do I have to do to the pool before winterizing it?

A: On the day before SWIMCO POOLS is scheduled to winterize your pool, you will need to do the following:

•           Vacuum the pool - remove any leaves or worms, as they might leave protein stains on the liner.
•           Lower the water level - 1" below the skimmer. You can lower the water either by draining the pool to waste (see Q: How do I clean my cartridge filter or Q: How do I clean backwash my DE (Earth) filter).
•           SPA - You should never drain your SPA. The weight of the water keeps it in place.
•           Pool Access - The gate to the pool need to be unlocked so that we have access.
•           Outstanding Account Balance - Your account will need to be paid in full when we schedule your closing.
•           Payment - We collect at the time of closing, otherwise we cannot close the pool. You can leave a check in a plastic baggie taped to the filter, or we can take a credit card details to be charged the day after the closing.
•           Winter Plugs - must be left out. Should the plugs not be available then we will use our own and bill you for the additional expense.
•           Winter Cover and Water Bags - need to be out and near the pool. We do sell 8' long double-sided water bags if any need replacing and you wish us to deliver them at time of your closing.
•           Safety Cover - needs to be out and near the pool.
•           Garden hose - leave out so that we can fill water bags if required.

Note: We will bring your winter plugs, cover, and water bags with us for your first closing.

Note: There are two types of closings: Full and Partial. The only difference between them is that a Partial Closing, we will not install the cover (safety or winter).

Once the pool is closed:

•       Acid Bath - if you have an earth filter we recommend that you take the filter fingers to a pool retail store and have them acid dipped before you store them. This prevents algae building up over the winter. Cartridge filters should be cleaned before storage (see Q: How do I clean my cartridge filter?).
•            Mineral Pack - throw it away. It is only good for one pool season. When you schedule your pool opening, you can order a new cartridge to be installed at time of opening.
•           Chlorine Cartridges - throw away opened cartridges, as the fumes are dangerous and corrosive.
•           Ladders/handrails - do not store near fertilizer, gasoline, or chlorine as the stainless steel may rust and/or pit.
•           Winter Cover - if you have a cover that is held down with water bags, remove the water from on top of it regularly with a submersible pump to help reduce ground water around your pool. Leave about 1" of water to keep the cover in place.

Note: SWIMCO POOLS will remove the water from all lines and disassemble most of your equipment (Pump, Filter, Frog). You can store these in your garage or basement during the winter. If you have a Heater, the gas will be shut off to the heater. It can remain outside during the winter.

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Q: What do I have to do before opening the pool for the season?

A: There are two types of openings Partial and Full.

Partial Opening:

• Remove your winter cover. If you have a regular cover held down with water bags, use a submersible pump to remove the water from the top of the cover.
• Fill the pool water with water to the middle of the skimmer (normal pool use). If you have a winter cover, put a hose into the pool underneath the cover and add the water at the same time as you remove it from the top of the cover. This will equalize the weight to help prevent a floating liner.
• If you have a safety cover, remove and let dry before storage. Refilling the pool water is normally not required, but you will need to lower the water level back to the middle of the skimmer.
• Leave your filter, pump, garden hose and other pool parts out by the pool.
• Make sure the breaker for your pump is on.
• Leave the gate unlocked so that we have access to the pool.
• Payment - we collect at the time of the opening, otherwise we cannot open the pool. You can leave a check in a plastic baggie taped to the filter, or we can take a credit card details to be charged the day after the opening.

  Tip: Let your winter cover and water bags dry before folding and storage.

  Full Opening:

• If you have a regular cover, remove all water from the top using a submersible pump. If you have a safety cover make sure the cover tools (pole and wrench) are placed with other equipment.
• Fill the pool water with water to the middle of the skimmer (normal pool use). If you have a winter cover, put a hose into the pool underneath the cover and add the water at the same time as you remove it from the top of the cover. This will equalize the weight to help prevent a floating liner.
• If you have a safety cover, SWIMCO will remove the cover. Let the cover dry before storage. You will have to lower the water level back to normal operating leverl (middle of the skimmer).  
• Leave your filter, pump, garden hose and other pool parts out by the pool.
• Make sure the breaker for your pump is on.
• Leave the gate unlocked so that we have access to the pool.
• Payment - we collect at the time of the opening, otherwise we cannot open the pool. You can leave a check in a plastic baggie taped to the filter, or we can take a credit card details to be charged the day after the opening.

Note: It is SWIMCO POOLS policy not to perform heater maintenance during a scheduled pool opening. If heater or other service is required, you will need to contact SWIMCO POOLS Service to schedule.

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Q: What are the ranges for most of the common chemicals used?

A: The maintenance of proper water balance is the single most important factor in maximizing the life and appearance of your vinyl liner. Proper pH levels, for example allow the chemicals to perform their function. Chlorine needs a certain pH to kill bacteria and algae. Below is a sample chart of ranges:

ppm = Parts Per Million

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Q: What can happen to my pool if the pH levels are wrong?

A: Proper pH levels allow other chemicals to do their work. Too high or low pH levels can also cause damage to your liner. Under the right circumstances with pH below 7.0, the liner can actually grow and develop unsightly wrinkles. High pH greatly accelerates the aging process and shortens the life of your liner.

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Q: What does chlorine really do?

A: In most areas of the country, the circulating range of 1.0 - 1.5 ppm of chlorine will do the job of killing the bacteria in the water. Above this range high concentrations will attack the liner, bleach it and shorten the life. Below the range may not kill the bacteria, causing unsanitary conditions and possible staining of your liner.

Tip: Never let chlorine come into contact with the liner before it has fully dissolved. This means that granular or tabulated chlorine is dissolved in water first, and likewise liquid chlorine is poured in various locations around the pool and is immediately agitated, dispersed and circulated. The broadcasting of tablets, granules or concentrated chemicals can blend the liner and shorten the life of the liner. Never mix chemicals together, rather add chemicals to pool water separately and circulate throughout the pool before adding another chemical. Ensuring your system is running while adding chemicals can do this.

Note: The use of an automatic chlorinator reduces the need to manually add chemicals and makes the operation of the pool safer.

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Q: How do I clean the water line and get rid of that "bathtub ring"?

A: Another major contributor to shortening the life of a pool liner is dirt and grime at the water line of the liner. That "bathtub ring" is usually caused by the accumulation of airborne contaminants, combining with dirt, and body and suntan oils to settle on the liner and can be baked into the liner by the sun. If this line gets baked in, it acts on the vinyl to prematurely dry and crack it, especially in the "sun corner" of the pool.

There is a simple and inexpensive way to reduce the problem. Routinely wipe the water line with a sponge to eliminate grime build up. If grime builds up has occurred, be sure to use only vinyl cleansers recommended by the manufacturer.

Note: NEVER USE ABRASIVE CLEANERS OR PADS ON THE LINER. DO NOT USE GASOLINE, KEROSENE OR OTHER PETROLEUM PRODUCTS EITHER. THEY CAN CAUSE RAPID DETERIORATION OF THE LINER.

Tip: A good, non-alcohol, non-petroleum based vinyl protective liquid applied to a clean vinyl surface will reduce grime build up and ultra violet deterioration.

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Q: Should I ever drain my pool?

A: NO! You should never lower the water level of your pool to less than a foot in the shallow end. If water pressure is removed from the liner it may shrink, causing, at the least an unsightly liner, and end up tearing around fittings or in the corners.

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Q: How do I clean my cartridge filter and how often should I do it?

A: To fully clean the cartridge filter, disassemble the filter, remove the cartridge and spray with a garden hose. NEVER USE A POWER WASHER TO CLEAN A CARTRIDGE FILTER. If the cartridge is very dirty, soak it overnight in a liquid detergent (what ever kind your family normally uses) to remove oils. Make sure to rinse the cartridge thoroughly and then reassemble the filter.

Tip: It's a good idea to have a second cartridge so that while one cartridge is soaking the second one is in use. Once you finish cleaning the first cartridge, let and dry and place in storage until the currently used one requires cleaning. This will prolong to life of the cartridge.

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Q: How do I clean my DE (Earth) Filter and how often should I do it?

A: After every pool cleaning shut down system and move the bump handle on top of the filter up and down about 6 or 7 times. This removes the dirt from the fingers inside the filter. Turn the system back on and check the pressure. The pressure should return to normal. If the pressure remains high, it's time to backwash your filter.

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Q: How do I "Backwash" my DE (Earth) Filter?

A: Turn the system off and attach a hose to the backwash valve on the back of the filter (if a hose is not already there). Move the bump handle on the top of the filter up and down about 13 times and open the backwash valve. With the skimmer valve closed, turn the system back on and watch the end of the hose for the DE (earth) to drain out. When the water runs clear, shut the system off and close the backwash valve.

Now running the pool on skimmer only (to give it the most suction), add seven scoops of DE (earth) directly through the top of the skimmer. Make sure that the water level is half way up the skimmer again before doing this, because if too much water was lost during the backwashing the pump will loose prime from sucking air through the skimmer.

Tip: After backwashing your filter, it's a good idea to run water through the backwash valve. Ensure your system is off and the backwash valve is open. Using a garden hose, rinse out the valve and tread area. Open and close the valve a couple of time to make sure that all dirt and earth have been removed from the ball valve assembly. Doing this keeps the valve clean and will be easier to open next time.

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Q: Do I need to prime my pump each time I start up?

A: Most pool pumps are self-priming, which means that they are continually trying to draw water by themselves. If you need to prime your pump, follow these simple instructions:

• Ensure your system is off
• Remove the strainer basket from the pump and dump any trash.
• Run water from a garden hose into the pump until the water does not drain out anymore.
• Return the strainer basket (ensure that you have to basket positioned correctly)
• Replace the pump cap and hand tighten the screws.
• Turn your system back on.

It may take a couple of minutes for the pump to prime, so be patient.

Tip: Occasionally the pump may need cleaning in order to prevent the pressure in the system from falling. This can occur when the impellor gets clogged with debris that is too small or fine to be caught in the strainer. This can especially happen with hair, pine needles or cottonwood tree particles. To clean the impellor, turn the system off and remove the strainer basket. Try to un-clog using a wire coat hanger. You can always call SWIMCO POOLS to schedule a service call or unplug the pump and disconnect both union joints (located on top and front of pump), and bring into SWIMCO POOLS for service.

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Pool Chemical Guide

Your pool is a big investment. To protect your investment, you should operate and maintain it properly. The chemicals needed for your pool help make it clean, sanitary, and more attractive to use. But remember, these water treatment chemicals may present some hazards if not used properly. When handling and administering pool chemicals, read the instructions carefully and follow the manufacturer's directions.

Before you open your first package of pool chemicals, you should know about all the available safety equipment and what might come in handy when treating your pool. Such products include protective equipment for eyes, face, hands, and clothing. Also keep adequate records about pool operations, chemical purchase dates, cost, amounts used over time, and "on hand" supplies of the chemicals. You should periodically review these records to ensure control over how the chemicals are being used.

Chlorine and bromine disinfectants are strong oxidizers, and can cause a fire if contaminated with combustible organic materials, such as oils, gasoline, and paint thinners. They can produce toxic gas if mixed with acid or ammonia; and should not be mixed or contaminated.

Always keep track of how old the various chemicals are. Chemicals in test kits should be replaced each year.

Types of Disinfectants

From the first day you fill your pool the purity of the water must be maintained with a chemical disinfectant, also called a sanitizer.

Enough disinfectant must reside in the water to kill bacteria and algae brought into the pool by bathers, wind, and rain. In addition, you must balance your pool water to the recommended pH and alkalinity levels and maintain them in the proper range. Properly maintained pools normally do not have odors or cause eye irritation.

For chlorine and bromine disinfectants, maintaining the pool water pH (between 7.2 and 7.6) and Total Alkalinity (between 80 and 140 parts per million) will help ensure your disinfectant is effective.

How to Use a Test Kit

You can do most of the necessary water maintenance on your own pool. Testing the water is the first step. Most pool stores stock easy-to-use test kits. Obtain a reliable test kit and carefully follow the directions that come with it. Some helpful hints include reaching far below the surface to get an accurate water sample and taking your sample at the same time of day.

Balancing pH in Pool Water

Once you have tested your water, charts are included in the testing kit will indicate your water's pH balance. Remember, high chlorine residual in the water can affect the pH reading, so take the pH reading before adding any chlorine. If the test shows the water has too low or too high a pH level, the water must be adjusted.

The ideal pH level for pool water is between 7.2 and 7.6. Above 7.6, the water is too alkaline (base) and under certain conditions can form deposits in the plumbing lines and on pool surfaces. 7.2 pH and below, the pool water is too acidic. The lower the pH value, the greater the acidity. If the water is too acidic, it can damage the plumbing lines and pool surfaces.

Maintaining your water slightly on the alkaline side (between 7.2 and 7.6 pH) is important for a number of reasons.

• When the pool water is too alkaline (above 7.6 pH), disinfecting chemicals work slowly. They may not do their proper job, even though a test of the water may indicate a proper "residual".
• A scale may form on or in pool equipment and piping or pool heater coils if the water is too alkaline.
• If the pool water becomes too acidic (below 7.2 pH), it can irritate the eyes, corrode equipment and plumbing lines and result in pool interior surface stains.

Common Chemicals that Raise and Lower pH

The pH of your pool tells you which chemicals to add to maintain a 7.2 to 7.6 pH level. Soda ash or sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate are common chemicals used to raise pH. Muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate lower pool water pH and make it more acidic.

Liquid, powder or tablet forms of the chemicals are most often used in residential pools. Be sure to check with the retail store and real all instructions on the packaging on the correct way to add the chemicals to your pool.

Chemicals to Control Total Alkalinity

Pool water should also be regularly tested for total alkalinity (basicity), which is a measure of the total amount of alkaline chemicals or "buffering" agents in the water. It refers to the degree of resistance of pH change of pool water or its "buffering" capacity. The proper alkalinity level is usually between 80 and 140 ppm (Parts Per Million).

Low alkalinity usually makes pH control difficult because of a lack of "buffering" capacity or resistance to pH change. Alkalinity must be increased to offset the possibility of the pool water reverting to acid. A pH level below 7.2 can cause swimmer discomfort, corrosion of metal pool parts and bleaching.

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is used to raise total alkalinity. A good rule of thumb is that 1.5 pounds of sodium bicarbonate will raise the alkalinity of 10,000 gallons of water by 10 ppm. Muratic acid or sodium bisulfate may be used to lower alkalinity. They should be diluted or dissolved into water and then added into one area of the pool, preferably in the deep end and away from walls and fixtures. The amount of acid required is referred to as "acid demand" and can be measured by some test kits.

Factors Affecting the Longevity of Disinfectants

• Bathing Load. The greater the number of swimmers who use your pool, the more disinfectant you will need.
• Sunlight. The greater the sun's intensity, the faster the dissipation of disinfectant. The loss of hypochlorite caused by sunlight can be minimized by "stabilizing" the pool water with cyanuric acid or by using a chlorinated cyanuric chemical on a daily basis.
• Water temperature. The warmer the pool's water, the shorter the life of most chemicals used as disinfectants. This process is greatly accelerated when water temperature exceeds 85 degrees.
• Wind and Rain. These elements carry dust, bacteria, algae spores and other debris into the pool. The causes the chemical disinfectants to be overworked and reduces their power to sanitize. This effect is increased when there are many shrubs and trees near the pool.
• pH Balance. As the pH of pool water rises, disinfectant action slows down. More disinfectant must then be added to maintain proper sanitation. The ideal range is between 7.2 and 7.6 pH
• Total Alkalinity. If total alkalinity is low (below 80 ppm), the pH of the water will fluctuate. If the alkalinity is too high (above 140 ppm), it will tend to maintain pH at a higher level then desired and may cause scaling and cloudy water.

Algae Control

Algae are minute water-loving plant growths that may be introduced into the pool by wind, rain or freshly added water. Clean-water algae may be blue-green, green, pink-red, red, yellow, brown, or black in color, and can cause unusual tastes, odors, cloudiness, and slippery spots.

If you have a problem with algae it is due to a lack of chlorine. Use only non-stabilized chlorine or non-chlorine shock as a disinfectant. Also clean the sides and bottom of the pool with a pool brush and have the filter cleaned thoroughly (an acid bath if you have a DE filter) in order to prevent a re-infection.

Note: If you have a solar cover, you should not leave it on the pool all day, even if the pool is not in use. In order to allow the pool to breathe, and to help prevent an algae breakout, you should only cover the pool in the evening and at night, when the temperature drops.

Simple Rules for Use, Storage, and Handling of Pool Chemicals

• Keep all chemicals out of the reach of children.

• Keep records of how old your chemicals are.

• Keep the original lids on all chemical containers and make sure the lids are closed tightly when not in use.

• Do not stack different containers on top of each other.

• Store chemicals in a cool, dry place.

• Follow label directions.

• Apply directly to the pool water, either through a suitable feeder, or according to the manufacturer's directions.

• Avoid mixing pool chemicals.

• Dispose of wastes in a safe manner.

Remember...

Don't overdose... measure the amounts closely. Pool chemicals - like medicine - should only be used in specified amounts. Too much can cause irritating side effects.

Don't guess... take time to learn how to use your test kit. Be sure to replace chemicals in your test kit each pool season to ensure accuracy.

Establish a routine for testing and treatment... a few minutes every day - or every other day - can make the job easy and help ensure that your pool is always ready for your enjoyment.

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